Aging galvanized or failing copper supply lines replaced throughout the house, restoring pressure and water quality.
01Repiping
Repeated failures across a property, not just one, are what turn a repair into a case for replacing the supply lines.
When copper starts pinholing in several places, patching each one is a losing race. Replacing the affected runs is the fix.
Rust from aging galvanized pipe. When it is the whole house, cleaning the fixtures doesn’t help; the supply lines are the problem.
Corrosion narrows old pipe from the inside. New supply lines restore the pressure the house was built to have.
A single fixed leak is normal wear. A second or third leak on the same run of pipe, especially at a different spot each time, usually means the pipe itself is failing rather than any one fitting.
02Repair or replace
A single leak calls for a repair. A pattern across the property calls for something else.
Repiping
Serving Round Rock, TX.
03Materials
What replaces the pipe depends partly on what is coming out and partly on the rest of the property.
Flexible plastic tubing that resists the corrosion that failed the original pipe, with fewer joints behind a wall because it bends around corners instead of needing a fitting at each one. It is the material most whole-home repipes use today.
Rigid pipe joined with soldered fittings, familiar to plumbers working on a property's existing lines. It costs more in material and labor than plastic tubing and is still the choice where a property's layout or local water conditions favor it.
04The job
Access is most of the work. These decide how much of it a repipe needs.
Reaching the supply lines means opening walls, ceilings or floors wherever pipe runs behind them, and that access is most of the labor in a repipe. A plumber maps the routing first so each opening lands where a line actually is.
A larger property has more fixtures and more distance for supply lines to cover, which means more runs to replace and more places that need to be opened and closed back up. A single-story house with one bathroom is a smaller job than a multi-story house with several.
Galvanized steel is heavier to remove and often more corroded at its joints than the newer pipe beside it. Polybutylene comes out in shorter sections because its fittings tend to fail as they are disturbed. What is coming out shapes how the job is planned as much as what is going in.
Tile, built-in cabinetry and finished ceilings take longer to open and to put back than drywall does, and that closing-up work is part of the job, not an afterthought. A property with more finished surfaces around its pipe runs takes longer to restore than one that is mostly open framing.
05How it works
A repipe is scheduled, planned work rather than a rushed fix, and water stays on for most of it.
A repipe is scheduled ahead of time rather than reacting to a single failure, and most of the work is access: opening a controlled path to the supply lines through walls, ceilings or a crawlspace, running new pipe, then closing each opening back up. On an occupied property the work is usually staged fixture by fixture or floor by floor, so water is off only while that section is being connected and comes back on for the rest of the day.
The decision to repipe usually follows a pattern rather than a single event: pipe that fails the same way more than once, in more than one place, is telling a plumber something about the whole run rather than one fitting. Galvanized steel corrodes closed from the inside long before it looks bad from outside, polybutylene fittings are known to fail as the pipe ages, and copper that pits in one spot is often pitting elsewhere along the same line. Replacing the run addresses the cause rather than the latest symptom.
06Questions
A pattern matters more than any single leak: more than one failure on the same line, discolored water from more than one faucet, or pressure that has dropped throughout the property all point to the pipe rather than one fitting. A plumber can look at the pattern and the pipe material and say which side of that line the property is on.
Most repipes use flexible plastic tubing, run through the same framing the old pipe occupied, because it resists the corrosion that failed the original line and needs fewer fittings behind a wall. Copper is still used where a property's layout or local water conditions call for it.
No. A repipe is usually staged fixture by fixture or floor by floor, so water is off only for the section being worked on and is restored for the rest of the property while the next section is prepared.
Less than most people expect. Access is opened at the points that need it, water is off only for short stretches, and the openings are closed up afterwards. The size of the house and the pipe routing set the schedule.
Water that cannot be stopped, sewage coming up, no water at all, or a smell of gas: urgent. A drip, a slow drain or a running toilet: worth fixing soon, but not tonight. When in doubt, shut off the water to the fixture and ask.
Where the problem is, when it started, what changed, whether the water is off, and the age of the fixture or heater involved. A photo of the problem and of any visible model label helps too.
Pecan Valley Plumbing
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